PlantRx

Pothos not growing

By Karim DiabatePublished Updated How these guides are built

A pothos that has stopped growing is not necessarily unwell. Growth is seasonal, and some plants are simply slow. The question worth answering first is whether this is a stall or a decline, because they need opposite responses.

A healthy Pothos, photographed for reference
A healthy pothos for comparison. This is a reference photo, not a picture of the problem. Photo by Mokkie (CC BY-SA 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons.

What is specific to this plant

  • Pothos roots so readily in plain water that cutting back to clean stem and re-rooting the healthy pieces is often faster than nursing a rotted root ball back.
  • Fading variegation toward plain green is the earliest sign of too little light, and it shows up long before the plant looks unwell.
  • Long bare stretches of stem between leaves mean the vine is funding its growing tip at the expense of everything behind it.

What it could be, and how to tell

These look alike in a photograph, so each one below lists what you would ALSO see if that is the cause. Work down the list and stop at the one where the other symptoms match too.

most common

1. A vine funding its tip at the expense of the stem behind it

What else you would see

  • long bare stretches of stem between leaves toward the end of the vine
  • leaves at the growing tip smaller than those near the base
  • older leaves dropping from the back of the vine while the tip extends
  • a vine reaching away from the pot toward the light
How to confirm it: Measure the gaps between leaves along the vine rather than counting leaves. A pothos in poor light extends toward better light and pays for it by stretching its internodes and abandoning the growth behind, so the vine gets longer while the plant gets thinner. Widening gaps toward the tip is that trade, and it does not reverse on the stem already made.

What to do

  1. Move it brighter, then cut the stretched vines back to a well-leafed point.
  2. Root the cuttings and put them back into the same pot to thicken it up.
  3. Turn the pot regularly so the whole plant gets light rather than one side.
common

2. Not enough light

What else you would see

  • long bare stretches of stem between the leaves
  • each new leaf smaller than the last
  • lower leaves shed while the growing tip carries on
How to confirm it: Stretched growth and shrinking new leaves together, on a plant whose watering is otherwise right. Pothos wants bright indirect light, though it tolerates much less.

What to do

  1. Move it to bright indirect light, though it tolerates much less.
  2. Cut back the stretched growth. It will not compact again on its own, and cutting back is what triggers branching.
  3. Turn the pot every couple of weeks so it grows evenly.
common

3. The season

What else you would see

  • the pause started in autumn and has continued through winter
  • the existing leaves look healthy and are not dropping
  • shorter days and lower light than in summer
How to confirm it: Healthy foliage plus no new growth, between autumn and early spring, is a resting plant. Almost nothing grows meaningfully indoors in midwinter, and pushing it with fertiliser then does harm rather than good.

What to do

  1. Wait for spring. Reduce watering to match the lower demand.
  2. Do not feed a resting plant. Fertiliser it cannot use accumulates as salt in the mix.
less common

4. Rootbound, or soil that is worn out

What else you would see

  • roots circling the inside of the pot or escaping the drainage holes
  • water running straight through with almost no absorption
  • two or more years in the same pot, and smaller new growth each season
How to confirm it: Lift the plant out and look. A dense mat of circling roots with very little mix left means the pot can no longer hold what the plant needs.

What to do

  1. Repot one size up in spring into fresh free-draining potting mix, teasing the outer roots loose.
  2. Feed during the growing season, following the instructions on the label of whatever you buy.
less common

5. Nothing left in the mix

What else you would see

  • two years or more in the same mix with no feeding
  • pale new growth that is smaller than the old growth
  • water running straight through a mix that has shrunk in the pot
How to confirm it: Uniform pallor in the newest leaves, on a plant that has not been repotted or fed for a long time and has enough light.

What to do

  1. Repot into fresh free-draining potting mix in spring.
  2. Feed during the growing season only, following the label on the product you buy.
uncommon

6. Roots damaged by overwatering

What else you would see

  • the vine going soft and brown at a node, so everything beyond it fails
  • leaves darkening and going limp rather than yellowing and crisping
  • roots at the drainage holes brown and stringy rather than white
How to confirm it: Slide the plant out of its pot and look at the roots. Healthy ones are firm and white. Brown, soft, or hollow when you press them means rot, and that changes what you do next completely.

What to do

  1. Stop watering and let it dry down this far: the top two inches.
  2. Check that the pot drains and empty any saucer or decorative outer pot it sits in. Water held out of sight keeps the mix wet whatever you change above it, and it stays invisible until you lift the pot.
  3. If the roots are soft and brown, trim them back to firm tissue with a blade sterilised first and repot into fresh free-draining potting mix.

Common questions

How fast should a pothos grow?

It varies enormously by species and by season. The useful comparison is against the same plant last spring, not against someone else's. A plant that grew well last summer and has paused in December is behaving normally.

Will fertiliser make it grow?

Only if a nutrient shortage is what is holding it back, which is much rarer than it is assumed to be. Feeding a plant that is short of light does nothing useful and builds up salts in the mix.

Should I repot to encourage growth?

If it is genuinely rootbound, yes. If there is still mix and room in the pot, no. Moving a plant into a much larger pot slows it down, because the extra wet mix nothing is drinking from is where rot starts.

Is a pothos poisonous to cats, dogs or children?

Pothos contains calcium oxalate crystals and is widely listed as harmful to pets and children if chewed. We do not tell you that any plant is safe. If a pet or a child may have chewed any part of one, contact a vet, or Poison Control on 1-800-222-1222 in the US, immediately rather than waiting to see what happens.

Before you act on any of this

This is general plant care guidance for a plant, not advice about people or animals. We never tell you whether a plant is safe to eat or touch, and we never tell you a plant is safe for a child or a pet. If a child or animal may have eaten any part of a plant, contact Poison Control (US 1-800-222-1222) or a vet immediately rather than reading further.

Treatment advice here is deliberately category level. We do not give product names, mixing ratios or application intervals. Whatever the label on the product in your hand says is the instruction that counts, and following it is your responsibility.

Where this comes from

The general horticultural facts behind this differential come from published university extension and Royal Horticultural Society guidance. What is specific to this plant, and the order the causes are ranked in, is ours, and the methodology page says where that reasoning stops being reliable.

Other pothos problems

Not sure which one it is?

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