Snake plant problems
Most of what goes wrong with a snake plant comes down to a small number of causes, and they produce overlapping symptoms. This is what actually goes wrong with this plant, what separates one cause from another, and where to go for a specific symptom.

What is specific to this plant
- Snake plants store water in their leaves and rhizomes and are killed far more often by watering than by neglect. If in doubt, wait another week.
- Thirst shows as leaves that wrinkle lengthwise and curl inward. Rot shows as a leaf that goes soft and pulls away from the base with no resistance.
- It grows very slowly indoors. Months without a new leaf is normal, not a symptom.
What it could be, and how to tell
These look alike in a photograph, so each one below lists what you would ALSO see if that is the cause. Work down the list and stop at the one where the other symptoms match too.
1. Overwatering, and the root rot that follows
What else you would see
- yellowing that starts as a soft pale band low on the leaf rather than at the tip
- a wet smell when you part the leaves at the soil surface
- mix still cool and damp weeks after the last watering
What to do
- Stop watering and let it dry down this far: the whole pot, or very nearly.
- Check that the pot drains and empty any saucer or decorative outer pot it sits in. Water held out of sight keeps the mix wet whatever you change above it, and it stays invisible until you lift the pot.
- If the roots are soft and brown, trim them back to firm tissue with a blade sterilised first and repot into fresh gritty, fast-draining mix.
2. Thirst and rot read from the same wrinkle
What else you would see
- leaves creased lengthwise along their run, still firm to press
- or leaves gone soft and slightly translucent low down instead
- mix that has been dry for a long time, or wet for a long time
- the plant otherwise unchanged for months either way
What to do
- Water thoroughly if the leaf is firm and creased, then let it dry the whole way down again.
- Stop watering entirely if the leaf gives under pressure, and check the base and rhizome for soft tissue.
- When genuinely unsure, wait another week: this plant is lost to too much water far more often than to too little.
3. Underwatering
What else you would see
- leaves creasing lengthwise into a shallow gutter while staying firm
- tips going hard and brown with no softness at all behind them
- a pot so light that the plant will no longer stand up in it
What to do
- Water thoroughly until it runs freely from the drainage holes, rather than a splash at the surface.
- If the mix has gone water-repellent and the water runs straight through, stand the pot in a basin of water for half an hour to rewet it properly.
- Water on dryness rather than on a fixed day of the week, and this is how far it should dry: the whole pot, or very nearly.
4. Not enough light
What else you would see
- long bare stretches of stem between the leaves
- each new leaf smaller than the last
- lower leaves shed while the growing tip carries on
What to do
- Move it to anything from low to bright, and it does best in bright.
- Cut back the stretched growth. It will not compact again on its own, and cutting back is what triggers branching.
- Turn the pot every couple of weeks so it grows evenly.
5. Spider mites
What else you would see
- fine pale stippling or speckling across the leaf rather than solid patches
- very fine webbing where the leaf meets the stem
- a dusty look to the underside of the leaf, worst in warm dry air
What to do
- Isolate the plant from your others straight away, before anything else.
- Rinse the leaves thoroughly, undersides included, with a strong spray of water, and repeat every few days. Mites breed faster than a single treatment can keep up with.
- Raise the humidity around the plant. Mites thrive in warm dry air and struggle in humid air.
- If you choose to use a treatment product, follow the label on it exactly. The label is the legal instruction and it overrides anything written here.
6. Rootbound, or soil that is worn out
What else you would see
- roots circling the inside of the pot or escaping the drainage holes
- water running straight through with almost no absorption
- two or more years in the same pot, and smaller new growth each season
What to do
- Repot one size up in spring into fresh gritty, fast-draining mix, teasing the outer roots loose.
- Feed during the growing season, following the instructions on the label of whatever you buy.
Common questions
What is the most common problem with a snake plant?
Too much water, by a distance, and it is common because it looks like thirst: roots that have rotted cannot drink, so the plant wilts while standing in wet mix. Snake plant wants this much to dry between waterings: the whole pot, or very nearly.
How much light does a snake plant need?
Snake plant wants anything from low to bright, and it does best in bright. Light problems show up in the growth rather than the colour: smaller new leaves, longer gaps between them, and lower leaves shed to fund the tip.
Why does my snake plant look worse after I repotted it?
Some drooping in the week after a repot is ordinary shock and passes. Getting steadily worse over several weeks usually means the new pot is much too large, so the mix nothing is drinking from stays wet, or that the mix itself holds too much water.
Before you act on any of this
This is general plant care guidance for a plant, not advice about people or animals. We never tell you whether a plant is safe to eat or touch, and we never tell you a plant is safe for a child or a pet. If a child or animal may have eaten any part of a plant, contact Poison Control (US 1-800-222-1222) or a vet immediately rather than reading further.
Treatment advice here is deliberately category level. We do not give product names, mixing ratios or application intervals. Whatever the label on the product in your hand says is the instruction that counts, and following it is your responsibility.
Where this comes from
The general horticultural facts behind this differential come from published university extension and Royal Horticultural Society guidance. What is specific to this plant, and the order the causes are ranked in, is ours, and the methodology page says where that reasoning stops being reliable.
- Indoor Plants: WateringClemson Cooperative Extension Home and Garden Information Center
- Common Houseplant Insects and Related PestsClemson Cooperative Extension Home and Garden Information Center
- Root Rots on HouseplantsUniversity of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension
- Low Light Impacts on Indoor PlantsUniversity of Maryland Extension
- Glasshouse red spider miteRoyal Horticultural Society
Other snake plant problems
- Snake plant leaves curling
- Snake plant leaves turning yellow
- Snake plant root rot
- Snake plant drooping
- Snake plant dying
- Snake plant brown tips
- Snake plant not growing
- Snake plant leaves turning brown
- Snake plant overwatered
Not sure which one it is?
PlantRx is an iPhone app that reads the photo and gives you the same kind of ranked differential you just read, for your plant specifically, with the evidence it based each answer on. The first diagnosis is free, in full. There is no subscription and no account.