Parlor palm dying
Before anything else, find out whether the plant is actually dying. A parlor palm can look finished from above and still be perfectly alive below, and the checks below tell you which situation you are in before you decide whether to intervene or to start again from a cutting.
What is specific to this plant
- Parlor palms are sold as several seedlings in one pot. What looks like one plant thinning out is often individual seedlings dying while the rest are fine.
- It tolerates low light well but not wet feet, so decline in a dim corner is far more often the watering than the light.
- Spider mites are the usual pest, and dry winter air is when they arrive.
What it could be, and how to tell
These look alike in a photograph, so each one below lists what you would ALSO see if that is the cause. Work down the list and stop at the one where the other symptoms match too.
1. A stem that cannot regrow once its tip is gone
What else you would see
- a stem with no new growth emerging from its centre
- the tip of that stem brown, hollow or missing
- other stems in the pot still producing
- a cut or snapped stem in the plant's history
What to do
- Cut out stems whose growing point has gone, at the base, and keep the rest.
- Judge the planting by how many stems still have a live centre.
- Never top a palm stem hoping it will branch, because it cannot.
2. Overwatering, and the root rot that follows
What else you would see
- individual stems in the clump going black at the base while the others stay green
- fronds yellowing from the oldest stem upward rather than from the tips inward
- a surface that stays wet because the clump is dense enough to shade it
What to do
- Stop watering and let it dry down this far: the top inch or two.
- Check that the pot drains and empty any saucer or decorative outer pot it sits in. Water held out of sight keeps the mix wet whatever you change above it, and it stays invisible until you lift the pot.
- If the roots are soft and brown, trim them back to firm tissue with a blade sterilised first and repot into fresh free-draining potting mix.
3. Underwatering
What else you would see
- every stem in the clump crisping at the tips at the same time
- the outer stems going bare from the bottom while the centre still opens fronds
- a pot light enough that the whole clump rocks when you touch it
What to do
- Water thoroughly until it runs freely from the drainage holes, rather than a splash at the surface.
- If the mix has gone water-repellent and the water runs straight through, stand the pot in a basin of water for half an hour to rewet it properly.
- Water on dryness rather than on a fixed day of the week, and this is how far it should dry: the top inch or two.
4. Not enough light
What else you would see
- long bare stretches of stem between the leaves
- each new leaf smaller than the last
- lower leaves shed while the growing tip carries on
What to do
- Move it to medium to low indirect light, which it genuinely tolerates.
- Cut back the stretched growth. It will not compact again on its own, and cutting back is what triggers branching.
- Turn the pot every couple of weeks so it grows evenly.
5. Cold or a draught
What else you would see
- damage that appeared within a few days of a cold snap, or of the heating or air conditioning coming on
- the plant sits near a window, an exterior door or a vent
- the damage is worst on the side facing the cold
What to do
- Move the plant away from the glass, the door or the vent.
- Damaged tissue will not recover. Leave it unless it turns soft, which is the point at which it can start to rot.
6. Spider mites
What else you would see
- fine pale stippling or speckling across the leaf rather than solid patches
- very fine webbing where the leaf meets the stem
- a dusty look to the underside of the leaf, worst in warm dry air
What to do
- Isolate the plant from your others straight away, before anything else.
- Rinse the leaves thoroughly, undersides included, with a strong spray of water, and repeat every few days. Mites breed faster than a single treatment can keep up with.
- Raise the humidity around the plant. Mites thrive in warm dry air and struggle in humid air.
- If you choose to use a treatment product, follow the label on it exactly. The label is the legal instruction and it overrides anything written here.
7. Rootbound, or soil that is worn out
What else you would see
- roots circling the inside of the pot or escaping the drainage holes
- water running straight through with almost no absorption
- two or more years in the same pot, and smaller new growth each season
What to do
- Repot one size up in spring into fresh free-draining potting mix, teasing the outer roots loose.
- Feed during the growing season, following the instructions on the label of whatever you buy.
Common questions
How do I tell if my parlor palm is dead or just struggling?
Look below the foliage. Firm roots that are fine and firm, and a firm stem or base, mean a living plant that can regrow even if it is bare. Everything soft, brown and collapsing means the plant has gone, and the honest answer is to start again.
Is it worth taking cuttings?
Often, and sooner rather than later. If any stem is still firm and green, a cutting taken now has a far better chance than the parent does, and it costs you nothing to try both at once.
Should I repot a plant that is struggling?
Only if the roots are the problem. Repotting is stressful and a plant that is struggling for light or water does not benefit from it. If the roots are rotting, repotting is the treatment rather than an extra stress.
Before you act on any of this
This is general plant care guidance for a plant, not advice about people or animals. We never tell you whether a plant is safe to eat or touch, and we never tell you a plant is safe for a child or a pet. If a child or animal may have eaten any part of a plant, contact Poison Control (US 1-800-222-1222) or a vet immediately rather than reading further.
Treatment advice here is deliberately category level. We do not give product names, mixing ratios or application intervals. Whatever the label on the product in your hand says is the instruction that counts, and following it is your responsibility.
Where this comes from
The general horticultural facts behind this differential come from published university extension and Royal Horticultural Society guidance. What is specific to this plant, and the order the causes are ranked in, is ours, and the methodology page says where that reasoning stops being reliable.
- Root Rots on HouseplantsUniversity of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension
- Indoor Plants: WateringClemson Cooperative Extension Home and Garden Information Center
- Low Light Impacts on Indoor PlantsUniversity of Maryland Extension
- Diagnosing Houseplant Problems from Improper Environmental ConditionsIowa State University Extension and Outreach
- Glasshouse red spider miteRoyal Horticultural Society
Other parlor palm problems
Not sure which one it is?
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