Parlor palm problems

Most of what goes wrong with a parlor palm comes down to a small number of causes, and they produce overlapping symptoms. This is what actually goes wrong with this plant, what separates one cause from another, and where to go for a specific symptom.

A healthy Parlor Palm, photographed for reference
A healthy parlor palm for comparison. This is a reference photo, not a picture of the problem. Photo by Bachelot Pierre J-P (CC BY-SA 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons.

What is specific to this plant

  • Parlor palms are sold as several seedlings in one pot. What looks like one plant thinning out is often individual seedlings dying while the rest are fine.
  • It tolerates low light well but not wet feet, so decline in a dim corner is far more often the watering than the light.
  • Spider mites are the usual pest, and dry winter air is when they arrive.

What it could be, and how to tell

These look alike in a photograph, so each one below lists what you would ALSO see if that is the cause. Work down the list and stop at the one where the other symptoms match too.

most common

1. Overwatering, and the root rot that follows

What else you would see

  • individual stems in the clump going black at the base while the others stay green
  • fronds yellowing from the oldest stem upward rather than from the tips inward
  • a surface that stays wet because the clump is dense enough to shade it
How to confirm it: Slide the plant out of its pot and look at the roots. Healthy ones are fine and firm. Brown, soft, or hollow when you press them means rot, and that changes what you do next completely.

What to do

  1. Stop watering and let it dry down this far: the top inch or two.
  2. Check that the pot drains and empty any saucer or decorative outer pot it sits in. Water held out of sight keeps the mix wet whatever you change above it, and it stays invisible until you lift the pot.
  3. If the roots are soft and brown, trim them back to firm tissue with a blade sterilised first and repot into fresh free-draining potting mix.
common

2. Underwatering

What else you would see

  • every stem in the clump crisping at the tips at the same time
  • the outer stems going bare from the bottom while the centre still opens fronds
  • a pot light enough that the whole clump rocks when you touch it
How to confirm it: Dry soil pulled away from the pot wall, with foliage that improves noticeably within a day of a thorough soak. If a thorough watering changes nothing in twenty four hours, stop assuming thirst and check the roots.

What to do

  1. Water thoroughly until it runs freely from the drainage holes, rather than a splash at the surface.
  2. If the mix has gone water-repellent and the water runs straight through, stand the pot in a basin of water for half an hour to rewet it properly.
  3. Water on dryness rather than on a fixed day of the week, and this is how far it should dry: the top inch or two.
common

3. Several seedlings in one pot, dying one at a time

What else you would see

  • the pot thinning out while the remaining stems look completely healthy
  • whole stems browning from the base rather than tips browning across the plant
  • separate stems emerging from the mix at slightly different points
  • no pattern relating the failing stems to light or position
How to confirm it: Part the stems at soil level and count what is actually growing there. A parlor palm is sold as a handful of seedlings potted together to look full, not as one plant, so what appears to be a single palm thinning out is often individual seedlings dying while their neighbours are unaffected. A single palm cannot lose a whole stem and stay healthy; a potful of seedlings can.

What to do

  1. Cut failed stems off at the base and leave the rest alone.
  2. Judge the planting by the stems that remain rather than by the gaps.
  3. Check the mix is not staying wet, since this plant tolerates dim light far better than it tolerates wet feet.
less common

4. Not enough light

What else you would see

  • long bare stretches of stem between the leaves
  • each new leaf smaller than the last
  • lower leaves shed while the growing tip carries on
How to confirm it: Stretched growth and shrinking new leaves together, on a plant whose watering is otherwise right. Parlor palm wants medium to low indirect light, which it genuinely tolerates.

What to do

  1. Move it to medium to low indirect light, which it genuinely tolerates.
  2. Cut back the stretched growth. It will not compact again on its own, and cutting back is what triggers branching.
  3. Turn the pot every couple of weeks so it grows evenly.
less common

5. Spider mites

What else you would see

  • fine pale stippling or speckling across the leaf rather than solid patches
  • very fine webbing where the leaf meets the stem
  • a dusty look to the underside of the leaf, worst in warm dry air
How to confirm it: Hold a sheet of white paper under a leaf and tap it sharply. Specks the size of dust that then move are mites. The stippling is what separates this from any watering problem.

What to do

  1. Isolate the plant from your others straight away, before anything else.
  2. Rinse the leaves thoroughly, undersides included, with a strong spray of water, and repeat every few days. Mites breed faster than a single treatment can keep up with.
  3. Raise the humidity around the plant. Mites thrive in warm dry air and struggle in humid air.
  4. If you choose to use a treatment product, follow the label on it exactly. The label is the legal instruction and it overrides anything written here.
uncommon

6. Rootbound, or soil that is worn out

What else you would see

  • roots circling the inside of the pot or escaping the drainage holes
  • water running straight through with almost no absorption
  • two or more years in the same pot, and smaller new growth each season
How to confirm it: Lift the plant out and look. A dense mat of circling roots with very little mix left means the pot can no longer hold what the plant needs.

What to do

  1. Repot one size up in spring into fresh free-draining potting mix, teasing the outer roots loose.
  2. Feed during the growing season, following the instructions on the label of whatever you buy.

Common questions

What is the most common problem with a parlor palm?

Too much water, by a distance, and it is common because it looks like thirst: roots that have rotted cannot drink, so the plant wilts while standing in wet mix. Parlor palm wants this much to dry between waterings: the top inch or two.

How much light does a parlor palm need?

Parlor palm wants medium to low indirect light, which it genuinely tolerates. Light problems show up in the growth rather than the colour: smaller new leaves, longer gaps between them, and lower leaves shed to fund the tip.

Why does my parlor palm look worse after I repotted it?

Some drooping in the week after a repot is ordinary shock and passes. Getting steadily worse over several weeks usually means the new pot is much too large, so the mix nothing is drinking from stays wet, or that the mix itself holds too much water.

Before you act on any of this

This is general plant care guidance for a plant, not advice about people or animals. We never tell you whether a plant is safe to eat or touch, and we never tell you a plant is safe for a child or a pet. If a child or animal may have eaten any part of a plant, contact Poison Control (US 1-800-222-1222) or a vet immediately rather than reading further.

Treatment advice here is deliberately category level. We do not give product names, mixing ratios or application intervals. Whatever the label on the product in your hand says is the instruction that counts, and following it is your responsibility.

Where this comes from

The general horticultural facts behind this differential come from published university extension and Royal Horticultural Society guidance. What is specific to this plant, and the order the causes are ranked in, is ours, and the methodology page says where that reasoning stops being reliable.

Other parlor palm problems

Not sure which one it is?

PlantRx is an iPhone app that reads the photo and gives you the same kind of ranked differential you just read, for your plant specifically, with the evidence it based each answer on. The first diagnosis is free, in full. There is no subscription and no account.

More about PlantRx