Monstera leaves curling
Curling is the earliest signal a monstera gives, which makes it useful: it usually shows up before anything discolours. The direction of the curl and the feel of the leaf are what separate the causes.

What is specific to this plant
- A mature monstera producing solid leaves with no splits or holes is short of light, not of fertiliser.
- Aerial roots are normal and are not a sign of trouble. Do not cut them off; they anchor the plant as it climbs.
- Monstera roots want air as much as water, which is why a dense peat-heavy mix causes trouble that the same watering in a chunky mix would not.
What it could be, and how to tell
These look alike in a photograph, so each one below lists what you would ALSO see if that is the cause. Work down the list and stop at the one where the other symptoms match too.
1. Underwatering or a hard dry-out
What else you would see
- leaf edges dry, thin or crisp rather than limp
- soil shrunk away from the side of the pot, and a pot that is light to lift
- the whole plant flagging at once rather than one leaf at a time
What to do
- Water thoroughly until it runs freely from the drainage holes, rather than a splash at the surface.
- If the mix has gone water-repellent and the water runs straight through, stand the pot in a basin of water for half an hour to rewet it properly.
- Water on dryness rather than on a fixed day of the week, and this is how far it should dry: the top two to three inches.
2. A new leaf that dried while it was still furled
What else you would see
- only the newest leaf affected, with older ones flat and undamaged
- the leaf opening creased, torn or stuck part way rather than unrolling cleanly
- the crease permanent once the leaf has finished expanding
- a history of the pot going hard dry, or of dry air, while that leaf was opening
What to do
- Leave the deformed leaf. It is not sick and it cannot be corrected, and it still works.
- Keep the watering steady while a new leaf is opening rather than letting the pot swing between soaked and bone dry.
- Move it out of the airflow from vents and radiators, which is what dries an opening leaf fastest.
3. Dry air
What else you would see
- worse in winter once the heating is on
- a radiator, a vent or a draught nearby
- other plants in the same room showing crisp edges too
What to do
- Move it away from direct heat sources and draughts.
- Group plants together, or stand the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, so the air immediately around it is more humid.
4. Too much light or heat
What else you would see
- bleached, pale patches rather than an even colour change
- damage only on the side or the leaves facing the window
- leaves warm to the touch in the afternoon
What to do
- Move it back from the glass or filter the light. Monstera wants bright indirect light.
- Bleached tissue does not turn green again. Judge recovery by whether NEW leaves come in a healthy colour.
5. Spider mites
What else you would see
- fine pale stippling or speckling across the leaf rather than solid patches
- very fine webbing where the leaf meets the stem
- a dusty look to the underside of the leaf, worst in warm dry air
What to do
- Isolate the plant from your others straight away, before anything else.
- Rinse the leaves thoroughly, undersides included, with a strong spray of water, and repeat every few days. Mites breed faster than a single treatment can keep up with.
- Raise the humidity around the plant. Mites thrive in warm dry air and struggle in humid air.
- If you choose to use a treatment product, follow the label on it exactly. The label is the legal instruction and it overrides anything written here.
6. Overwatering, and the root rot that follows
What else you would see
- yellowing that starts on the lowest, oldest leaves and works upward
- stems soft or dark at the soil line, sometimes with a sour smell
- soil or mix still wet several days after watering, when this much should have dried: the top two to three inches
- small flies around the pot, which breed only in constantly wet soil
What to do
- Stop watering and let it dry down this far: the top two to three inches.
- Check that the pot drains and empty any saucer or decorative outer pot it sits in. Water held out of sight keeps the mix wet whatever you change above it, and it stays invisible until you lift the pot.
- If the roots are soft and brown, trim them back to firm tissue with a blade sterilised first and repot into fresh chunky, airy aroid mix.
Common questions
Do curled monstera leaves uncurl again?
If the cause is caught early, yes: leaves curled by thirst or heat often flatten out again once conditions steady. Leaves that have already crisped at the edge will not, and those are judged by the new growth instead.
Which way should the leaves curl?
Curling inward or downward usually points at water, heat or a root problem. Cupping upward more often points at light. Neither is a rule on its own, which is why the other symptoms in the list above matter.
Could it be pests?
Yes, and it is worth ruling out early. Turn a leaf over and look for fine stippling or webbing. Pest curling comes with speckling that no watering problem produces.
Is a monstera poisonous to cats, dogs or children?
Monstera contains calcium oxalate crystals and is widely listed as harmful to pets and children if chewed. We do not tell you that any plant is safe. If a pet or a child may have chewed any part of one, contact a vet, or Poison Control on 1-800-222-1222 in the US, immediately rather than waiting to see what happens.
Before you act on any of this
This is general plant care guidance for a plant, not advice about people or animals. We never tell you whether a plant is safe to eat or touch, and we never tell you a plant is safe for a child or a pet. If a child or animal may have eaten any part of a plant, contact Poison Control (US 1-800-222-1222) or a vet immediately rather than reading further.
Treatment advice here is deliberately category level. We do not give product names, mixing ratios or application intervals. Whatever the label on the product in your hand says is the instruction that counts, and following it is your responsibility.
Where this comes from
The general horticultural facts behind this differential come from published university extension and Royal Horticultural Society guidance. What is specific to this plant, and the order the causes are ranked in, is ours, and the methodology page says where that reasoning stops being reliable.
- Diagnosing Houseplant Problems from Improper Environmental ConditionsIowa State University Extension and Outreach
- Indoor Plants: WateringClemson Cooperative Extension Home and Garden Information Center
- Lighting for Indoor PlantsUniversity of Maryland Extension
- Integrated Pest Management (I.P.M.) for Spider MitesClemson Cooperative Extension Home and Garden Information Center
- Glasshouse red spider miteRoyal Horticultural Society
Other monstera problems
- Monstera leaves turning yellow
- Monstera leaves turning brown
- Monstera root rot
- Monstera drooping
- Monstera brown tips
- Monstera black spots
- Monstera not growing
Not sure which one it is?
PlantRx is an iPhone app that reads the photo and gives you the same kind of ranked differential you just read, for your plant specifically, with the evidence it based each answer on. The first diagnosis is free, in full. There is no subscription and no account.