Monstera leaves turning yellow

Monstera deliciosa is forgiving, so yellow leaves usually mean something has been going on for a while rather than something sudden. Where the yellow starts is the most useful clue you have.

A healthy Monstera, photographed for reference
A healthy monstera for comparison. This is a reference photo, not a picture of the problem. Photo by Unknown author (CC BY-SA 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons.

First: this is often normal

The oldest leaf at the base of the plant going yellow while the growing tip keeps producing new leaves is normal. A monstera reallocates from its oldest leaf as it climbs.

What it could be, and how to tell

These look alike in a photograph, so each one below lists what you would ALSO see if that is the cause. Work down the list and stop at the one where the other symptoms match too.

most common

1. Overwatering

What else you would see

  • soil still wet several days after watering
  • yellowing starting on the lower, older leaves and spreading up
  • brown patches with a yellow halo appearing on the yellowing leaves
  • fungus gnats, and a heavy pot
How to confirm it: Finger two inches into the soil. Wet, with lower leaves yellowing and soft dark spots, is overwatering. Slide the plant out of its pot and look at the roots. Firm and pale, silvery or white means healthy. Brown, soft, or hollow when you press them means rot.

What to do

  1. Wait until the top two to three inches are dry before watering again.
  2. Check the pot drains and is not sitting in a full cachepot.
  3. If the roots are brown and soft, trim to firm tissue with a sterilised blade and repot in a chunky, free-draining mix. Monstera roots want air.
common

2. Not enough light

What else you would see

  • new leaves small and without splits or holes
  • long bare stem between leaves
  • lower leaves yellowing and dropping as the top grows
How to confirm it: New leaves coming in solid, with no fenestration, on a plant more than a year or two old, means light rather than water.

What to do

  1. Move to bright indirect light, near but not in a bright window.
  2. Give it something to climb. Monstera fenestrates more readily with support.
common

3. Underwatering

What else you would see

  • yellow leaves that also feel dry, thin or crisp at the edges
  • drooping across the whole plant at once
  • soil pulled away from the pot wall, pot light to lift
How to confirm it: Dry soil away from the pot wall plus a general droop that recovers after a proper soak.

What to do

  1. Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom rather than a little at a time.
  2. Rewet hydrophobic soil by standing the pot in a basin for half an hour.
less common

4. Rootbound or exhausted soil

What else you would see

  • roots out of the drainage holes or circling a solid root mat
  • water running straight through
  • smaller new leaves each time despite good light
How to confirm it: Lift it out and look. Mostly roots and little soil means it has outgrown the pot.

What to do

  1. Repot one size up in spring in a chunky aroid mix.
  2. Feed during the growing season, following the label of whatever you buy.
uncommon

5. Spider mites

What else you would see

  • fine pale stippling or speckling rather than whole yellow leaves
  • very fine webbing where the leaf meets the stem
  • dusty look to the underside of the leaf, worst in dry warm air
How to confirm it: Hold a sheet of white paper under a leaf and tap it. Moving specks the size of dust means mites. Stippling is the tell that separates this from a watering problem.

What to do

  1. Isolate the plant from your others straight away.
  2. Rinse the leaves thoroughly, undersides included, with a strong spray of water and repeat every few days.
  3. Raise the humidity. Mites thrive in dry warm air.
  4. If you use a treatment product, follow the label on the product exactly. The label is the legal instruction and overrides any advice here.

Common questions

Should I cut yellow leaves off my monstera?

Once a leaf is more yellow than green it is not coming back, so cut it at the base with a clean blade. If it is only edged with yellow, leave it while the plant finishes withdrawing from it.

Why are my monstera's new leaves yellow?

New growth yellowing is more serious than old growth yellowing. It usually means the roots are struggling, either from overwatering or from being badly rootbound. Check the roots rather than adjusting light.

Why doesn't my monstera have holes in its leaves?

Usually light, sometimes age. Young plants produce solid leaves regardless. On a mature plant, no fenestration plus long gaps between leaves means it needs brighter indirect light and something to climb.

Before you act on any of this

This is general plant care guidance for a plant, not advice about people or animals. We never tell you whether a plant is safe to eat or touch, and we never tell you a plant is safe for a child or a pet. If a child or animal may have eaten any part of a plant, contact Poison Control (US 1-800-222-1222) or a vet immediately rather than reading further.

Treatment advice here is deliberately category level. We do not give product names, mixing ratios or application intervals. Whatever the label on the product in your hand says is the instruction that counts, and following it is your responsibility.

Where this comes from

The general horticultural facts behind this differential come from published university extension and Royal Horticultural Society guidance. What is specific to this plant, and the order the causes are ranked in, is ours, and the methodology page says where that reasoning stops being reliable.

Other monstera problems

Related problems

Not sure which one it is?

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